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While the building itself is for sale, the business is not. Denis says the day-to-day operations of the late-night spot that opened in 1947 as the Italian Waiter’s Club will “be the same as ever”.

At 19 he got a job as a chef in Sylvester Stallone’s restaurant in Marbella, Spain, where he met English-Italian waitress Jessica. She invited him to London but Gino fell in with a bad crowd.