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in surfing, paddle power is far from the most important thing. most people miss waves not because they “didn’t paddle hard enough,” but because they weren’t in the right place at the right time. timing and positioning are everything: where the peak is, where you’re lying on the board, and how early you start paddling — all of that matters more than just paddling harder. when you’re in the right spot near the peak, 1–2 confident strokes are enough and the wave will pick you up. if you’re too far
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